picked up my baby ummm problems?

Spokes · Post by **Spokes** » Fri May 14, 2010 8:03 pm

Actually you don't need the "paper clip" parts. Those are adapters for another bike. You need the muffler hangers and the brackets that hold the large chrome base hanger to the rear of the fender frame. (they mount both on the shock and the additional bracket I am speaking of)There is an optional cross member that you could use.

I have my aftermarket stainless muffler hangers. They are stainless and I have redesigned the bracket into bendable segments for a better fit.

I have one original base bracket and one of my aftermarket ones. They are a very close match and are painted bright silver.

If the light bodies are gone. I can (and have) build nice shiney silver new ones with 6 volt bulbs, complete with mounting and wiring.

My through the frame wiring system requires you to replace the press in mounts with my hollow bolt system. Otherwise you can drill holes in the bags for wires.

You can pm me for further details. I have references from folks who have gotten my restored Buco product and my lights. My lights have the beehive lens, but you can get the Stratolite types that will fit.

This is a pic of a set of Buco bags on my 65 CA95 restore (now sold)

wnbasac · Post by **wnbasac** » Sat May 15, 2010 6:37 pm

Mr.Spokes i sent you a pm about the bags and here's some pics of my bags and brackets
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i also took in my bike to Charlies Place ( a haven for old hondas ) today and i can't wait till its done
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he told me that everyone is putting on those old school fake whitewalls on there bikes.i haven't seen those things since i was a kid.
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when i was there i saw a lot of benly's and dreams with the OEM blinker set-ups on the handlebars
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thanks a gain and have a HondaFull Day

Spokes · Post by **Spokes** » Sat May 15, 2010 9:31 pm

Yes, the fake whitewalls are an option. You can get Firestone Whitwall Tires for your Honda at http://www.universaltire.com @ $117.00 ea (325-16 with a 1-1/2whitewall.

Original turn signals can be obtained at a steep price because you need a original righthand turnsignal switch, holes in the handlebars and bulbs and lenses in the rear fender support. Turn signals were not required on these bikes back in the 1960's, so the original parts are hard to come by and expensive.

I build aftermarket sets. Handlebar mounted switch, clamp on chrome handlebar brackets, bullet lights conduit and all. The rears are mounted on the fender braces. It is best to run the wiring under the fender, but I have done a set that runs through the fender bracket and into the side covers. I should be building a couple of sets by mid June. There is a 3 to 4 week lead time as I have to source all of the componants.

wnbasac · Post by **wnbasac** » Mon May 24, 2010 6:25 pm

ok i got the word from the mechanic ( Charlie's place ) thats working on my bike
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carb rebuild
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its seems i need a set of points ( what years, models ) work on the ca95???
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i was looking at a set on flea-bay would this work?
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-C7 ... 500wt_1182
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he didn't like my coil make-over ( replaced the wires according to Mr.Spokes instructions ) he mentioned retrofitting a new coil,umm i'll have to get some more info on that
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thanks again for your help and have a HondaFull Day

Spokes · Post by **Spokes** » Mon May 24, 2010 6:49 pm

The coil wire retro fit has worked many times. I have done it on my own bikes and have run for hundreds of miles. Do you know why he does not like it? He can't sell you a new one!

Watchout for the hawks out there. Remember that these "mechanics" are also paid commission on sales, just like the service writer at the dealership. Commission, Commission, Commission.

Now you need points, oh now you need...Oh yes, Now you need...

You can find nice aftermarket points on ebay.
Write to this forum for great info from many of us who work on these bikes. We are out there to help..free of charge.

Be careful.

PM me on your Buco stuff. It is unheard of building lights for Buco bags..Can't be done... Yea phoey...

Smithers · Post by **Smithers** » Mon May 24, 2010 8:25 pm

Awww I wish I had time to do a thread on rebuilding these starters. They are fully serviceable and quite easy to work on! I rebuilt the one in my CB72, replaced the bearings, surfaced the brushes and synthetic greased it up... better then new. The starters on these babys are super strong. The bearings to service them are out there too.

wnbasac · Post by **wnbasac** » Tue Jun 15, 2010 6:50 pm

ok she's almost done but my clutch starts to slip when she gets warmed up
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does anyone know the part #'s for clutch plates 1965 model, I'm assuming that's all I need since the other parts are metal? everyone here is more experinced than me that's why I'm asking
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also I have a set of nos grips in the bag that fits the early ca95 and I need the late grips ( trade )
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thanks AGAIN, Lou

Sam Green · Post by **Sam Green** » Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:58 pm

Lou, there are plenty of clutch plates out there but beware of repros from Thailand.
Check out ebay, if you can't find genuine ones there is a seller of Barnett ones.
Honda part # is 22201-200-000. There may be other numbers but the plates are all the same for C90, C92, CS92, C95, CA95, CB92 and CB95.

Sam.

wnbasac · Post by **wnbasac** » Tue Jun 15, 2010 10:44 pm

Thank You Sam!!
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i thought that some part #'s changes by the years and i just wanted to be sure
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thanks again,lou

Sam Green · Post by **Sam Green** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 1:20 am

The numbers do change Lou but all the models listed above use the same friction plates. The C90 is the early 125cc twin (not the step through C90) that was Japanese market only.

Sam.

wnbasac · Post by **wnbasac** » Sat Jul 10, 2010 5:00 pm

got my bike back from the hospital and man i tell you the seller should be arrested for butchering the bike!!!
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1st - rewired the bike because he cut and spliced using all black wire on the bike and hooked up things like heck a crazy
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2nd - he glued the petcock on the tank it took a lot of prying to pop it off
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3rd - he even had a chunk of solder in the carb, had to replace the carb even after a rebuild it just wouldn't work
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4th - the clutch started slipping after it warmed up so it got all new parts
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now it purrs like a dream and everything works as it should!!!!
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but and theres always a but i have 1 problem left???
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the drain plug - the butcher had it all sealed up with who knows what? the bolt i think you can still call it that cause it has a big lump of something on it had to grind it off and grind the edges flat to fit a wrench on it BUT
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he the threads are jacked who knows maybe he hand no thumbs??? can this be fixed other than change the case out????????
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it drips oil #@&%*!!!!
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thanks and have a HondaFull Day, lou

Spokes · Post by **Spokes** » Sat Jul 10, 2010 6:47 pm

Well you have a couple of choices.

1.)Leave it alone, live with the drip and change the oil using a marine type pump. You can find these pumps at any marine supply house.

2.) You can buy a socket that is designed to grip buggered bolt heads and remove the drain plug.

Risk A) Threads are OK. Get a plug from Ohio Cycle. I have an extra drain plug, but it too has been beat.

Risk B.) Threads are bad. You can get a Heli-Coil (sp) from your local auto parts supplier. These "coils" are a type thread insert that is used to repair buggered spark plug holes and the like.

Risk C.) Threads are bad and you crack the engine base. This is the worst case senerio and unlikely.

In any event I happen to have a lower engine case for your bike. But it will be pricey to tear down the motor to replace the bottom half.

Back to choice #1

Buy a cookie sheet and use it to catch the drip. 99% of the old Honda engines that I have seen and even rebuilt...drip

wnbasac · Post by **wnbasac** » Sat Jul 10, 2010 8:36 pm

thanks for the reply
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the plug does come out its just that it doesn't seat all the way in.
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rat bastard no wonder it had all that gunk on it
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those Heli-Coils you mentioned do they come in different sizes? is this a do-it-yourself or machine shop?
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yea your right option #1. drip, drip, drip
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i have another engine that came with the bike and was going to rebuild it but this engine runs great oh well fun fun fun till my daddy takes the T-Bird away
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its always something

Spokes · Post by **Spokes** » Sat Jul 10, 2010 8:59 pm

Ohhh. OK. The plug comes out, but does not fully seat. You have 3 easy solutions.

1.) A custom cut 1/8" teflon washer.
2.) An aluminum "crush" washer
3.) A heavy copper washer.

I have a usable drain plug and can get a teflon gasket.
or

You can get crush washers & copper washers and heli coils from a good auto parts store. You can insert the heli coil yourself.

Also you might want to invest in a thread tap. A tap is about $30.00-$40.00 you could "chase" the threads with a tap and that might help seating. (I have a source for metric taps that size)

But try choices 1 2 & 3 first.

By the way, you don't have an oil leak...the bike is just marking its spot...ba da bum..

Spokes · Post by **Spokes** » Sat Jul 10, 2010 9:18 pm

Or buy this drain plug washer before doing anything.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-CB ... ccessories