Four Wheel Forum

That part is the starter chain guide. It mounts near the flywheel.

The shifting problem. On top of the engine case is two items that affects the tranny.
1.)The small "T" mounted at the rear, right hand, top of the motor will cause shifting issues if the spring is not installed. Check this first as it's an easy fix. While it is removed try shifting (motor off).
2.) There is a 14mm hex head next to the part above. It is the shifter drum guide. There is a small bushing on its end. If this was installed and the bushing fell off, it is jamming the drum.
Then,
The shift shaft. It is very possible that the shaft spring is installed incorrectly.

These fixes can be made without pulling the engine.




.

ok the "t" thing with the spring and the little wheel on the end was the first thing I started messing with when I found out it wasn't shifting. I have had it in an out when trying to get it to shift and the little spring is in there. Now the 14mm hex I do not think I ever removed in order to remove the bottom case, but the shift shaft spring with the two sissor arms comming off of it may be the culprit. If Installed it upside down how would it cause it not to shift? here is what it looks in their. thanks again spokes

Jet black-I had valve job done on the head before I put it back together so not too concerned about it not running. Also with starter on I had my spark plug tool on it and it gave me a nice jolt which welcomed! so I think it will run. I looked at the sissor shift s and i think i have it installed correctly.

I think I have to split. I will post some pictures of the gear case once I open it up, maybe you all will see something I am missing...thank you all for the replys. If anything else strikes your mind let me know.

Whoa..(nice pic)

The arm from the shifter to the shift drum need to be behind the shift drum plate.

Well, it's good the valve work is done and out of the way, when you get the shifting sorted mating surfaces clean and cover sewed up; I am looking forward to hearing about you firing it up and riding it around.

I'm going to open a new thread and post a bunch of pictures and the build so far

Spokes- the shift lever is a little sloppy but I think before I took the pic I moved onto thinking that is how it worked. It easily fl

It easily flops back behind the drum plate so I don't think that is the culprit. Do u know if there are any alignment marks for the shifting gear spindle or how I should align the gears once I split the case?

well I got it to start... with just the down pipes on..it sounds mean haha..it shifted into first but now i cant get it to shift back into neutral ugh...I tried rocking the bike back and forth to get it to shift..nothing...started it with the clutch in tried to shift it..nothing...In the foot pedal I can feel like it wants to shift but cant get it to....any thoughts?...

Mine won't go into neutral either while running; unless you turn the key off, then it pops right into neutral as easy as pie. I don't need neutral if the bike is already running so this quirk hasn't bothered me.

Perhaps it's a quirk with old models as my '65/'66 doesn't have this issue...one thing I've found myself reaching for is a kill switch, that must have started in the next decade of motorcycle technology!

i figured it out! the circlip had moved off of the grove allowing the linkage to slide in not allowing the arm to turn the cam. bike shifts perfect and I did not have to split the case. I was ready to split the case and did not discover it until I remember spokes saying to check the springs. I thought I would just flip the large spring on the shift link and found it...phew...thanks again spokes.

That's nice to know, thanks for posting; it hasn't bothered me so I never looked into it.