Punk is refurbishing a '62 Benly

punk · Post by **punk** » Wed May 23, 2012 9:23 am

I've got a ways to go yet.

Jetblackchemist · Post by **Jetblackchemist** » Wed May 23, 2012 11:31 am

Interesting how the paint looks faded under the brackets...either that or the PO taped and sprayed. Fun bike to build and ride.

punk · Post by **punk** » Sun May 27, 2012 8:37 am

well, started working on the wheels and the aluminum foil ruled the day for inside the rims.

On the outside of the rim, I was concerned about scratching the surface so I tried chemical rust removers. Those didn't work so I went to 00001 steel wool. That shined up the rims but I still had to take the aluminum foil to the rusty scratches.

Buffed up the rest of the parts, wire wheel to the spokes and steel wool to the hubs and such.

I don't know what to use on these parts to keep them from rusting. We're going to ride this bike and it's going to get dirty and rained on. So far I'm going with clear coat on everything but I don't want to make a mess for the next person that want to restore it.

Anyone have any warnings about clearcoating everything? Have any better soultions? I got a bunch more parts to do...

Spokes · Post by **Spokes** » Sun May 27, 2012 9:41 am

I use Dupi-Color High Temp Clear Enamel. It works well and dries fast. I would'nt worry about the next owner. IMO

punk · Post by **punk** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 6:39 am

Thanks, the wheels are back together and looking good. I went with clear coat on the hubs and spokes but I'll try to maintain the rims without paint.

I do have a question, there is loose rust inside both rims rattling around. I'd like to keep these rims usable for a long time.

Should I drill holes in the rims and spray in a bicycle frame rust inhibitor?

Jetblackchemist · Post by **Jetblackchemist** » Wed Jun 06, 2012 5:20 pm

I would highly suggest that you remove the tires and get the rust out of there; the rust inside the rims, can flake off pretty big and will become like razor blades on your inner tubes...leaving you stranded all of a sudden or a slow leak you won't be expecting.

punk · Post by **punk** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 6:25 am

After some nice nights in the garage I've been able to spray can everything in my paint booth.

And now I've got a roller!

punk · Post by **punk** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 6:30 am

Now I'm rewiring but I just had to look inside the engine.

Any ideas for getting this bushing out? It is the rpm sender unit's bushing and it is stuck. Is there a inside diameter grabber tool that I can stick in there and expand to remove this bushing?

There has been some previous work (broken/bent cooling fins) done to this motor and it looks like they tried to drift punch this bushing out.

punk · Post by **punk** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 3:00 pm

Looks like only one more problem with the head, until I can get the cam out that is. The inside right exhaust stud was the wrong thread and affixed with something like liquid metal. I will try but I don't think I can helicoil it due to the large size of the hole. Could be dicey.

The rest of the head and jugs look good for a bike with a speedo reading 24k.

And other than the engine there is only this one basket left to refurbish, nice.

Spokes · Post by **Spokes** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 4:53 pm

Being that the tach bushing looks buggered, it may be the toughest challenge. The housing holds the geared side of the cam. When you remove the cam then you can get at the bushing. The only trick I have is to make the metal shrink. Although it's a long shot.

Find some dry ice. Just a 1/4# or so. Buy some isopropanol at the drug store. With safety glasses and gloves mix a small amount of dry ice to the isoproponal. This make a solution that reaches -100 F solution. Add the part and let soak for a few minutes. With gloves on, try to free the part. I bought a nearly new speedometer for cheap because the cable was busted off in the drive. The above trick freed the cable. Just be careful as a -100f solution will freeze flesh on contact.

I think you may be able to helicoil the exhaust stud hole.

Larzfromarz · Post by **Larzfromarz** » Wed Jun 20, 2012 7:54 am

Gonna start callin Spokes Mr. Wizard.
Probably works well on warts too.

punk · Post by **punk** » Mon Mar 04, 2013 8:46 pm

Ahh the sweet taste of sucsess!
For my stuck bushing issue I ended up ginding off the end of an easy out, otherwise it would bottom out on the little geared shaft. Worked like a charm but now I'm hoping to not re-stall the bushing and the little geared shaft that runs off the end of the cam.
Can I do this?
Does that little geared shaft need to put pressure on the end of the cam for some reason?

I also got the top cap of the head off by clamping it with wood in a vise and eating plenty of wheaties that moring.

Larzfromarz · Post by **Larzfromarz** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 4:56 am

Mostly I guess I'd be curious about why a Ca95 has a tach output unless it was a CB92 head.
Frankly I'd be interested in those parts or be willing to swap you a standard Ca95 head with no tach output if you are trying to eliminate the tach.

punk · Post by **punk** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 10:14 am

I think the early ca's came with the tach sender but no tach.
I'm probably going to assemble all the parts out of respect for Mr. Honda. Lord knows if taking this spinning but usless shaft out of the motor will upset the magic but I'm inclined to pay respect to Soichiro just in case.
Maybe I'll find a tach and cable.

Larzfromarz · Post by **Larzfromarz** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 5:01 pm

I doubt the removal of the spinning shaft will result in the spinning of Soichiro in his grave.

Four Wheel Forum

Punk is refurbishing a '62 Benly

Punk is refurbishing a '62 Benly

bottoms up

My paint booth

the nasty bits

Digging in

back at it

I wish