Building a Honda CA95 from Scratch-Where's The Bike Now?
Sam Green wrote:Looking good Chip, don't get the frames mixed up.![]()
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Sam.![]()
Thanks Sam! But a good point to bring up! From what I can see, the only real difference between a 1965 CA95 and a 1966 CA160 frames are:
1.) The serial number
2.) The seat bracket under the tank. The CA160 is larger than the CA95
3.) The passenger foot peg mount on the swing arm
4.) The chain guard. You can't mix a CA95 chain guard upper with a CA160 lower chain guard. BUT you can use a complete chain guard from either bike and it will fit as long as you use a complete set.
5.) The starter cable from a CA95 will not fit a CA160 (Too Short) But you can use a CA160 Starter cable on a CA95 (you will have a little extra)
Besides the slight frame difference,
1.) The engine mounts for the CA95 & CA160 are the same.
2.) The wiring harness is different from the CA95 as compared to the CA160 as the CA95 point condenser is internal and the CA160 the point condenser is external.
The gas tanks are the same except the tank panels from the CA95 have badge mounting holes that are closer together than the CA160 badge holes.
This makes a difference when buying generic replacement badges.
I can say from building both bikes at the same time that you can bolt a CA160 engine into a CA95 frame (or the other way around) as long as you change the wiring harness to match the engine.
Last edited by Spokes on Sat Aug 20, 2011 10:22 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Reason: more detail
Reason: more detail
Spokes , lookin good . I'm sure you know this already but with all the new paint on our bike parts ( frame ,engine ,etc) the reminder to everyone , the frame (chassis ) is the ground source for the electrical system to work properly . If it's an electrical part being bolted on ,ie- coil, starter solenoid , rectifier , head and taillight ,engine to frame ,whatever else ,scrape a little paint from the bolting areas so everything has a solid ground point .
The other alternative is to run seperate ground wires to each individual component if you can't stand the thought of removing fresh paint .
See you in a couple of weeks hopefully .
The other alternative is to run seperate ground wires to each individual component if you can't stand the thought of removing fresh paint .
See you in a couple of weeks hopefully .
Thanks for the reminder about the ground when wiring. Yes I do grind off fresh paint to get a good ground. Wiring is next to this build. I just gt my new crome spokes and will be lacing wheels next week.
Time stamp 7-9-2011
I have been collecting front suspension parts. The pic below is the best parts assembled to gain two tight front ends for the dreams. The suspension is loose for now. The parts were cleaned and polished before assembly. Tomorrow the polishing continues to the shock parts. I hope to assemble the shocks as well

Time stamp 7-9-2011
I have been collecting front suspension parts. The pic below is the best parts assembled to gain two tight front ends for the dreams. The suspension is loose for now. The parts were cleaned and polished before assembly. Tomorrow the polishing continues to the shock parts. I hope to assemble the shocks as well
Last edited by Spokes on Sun Jul 10, 2011 10:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: add pic
Reason: add pic
Hi Sam. No, I machine out a fender brace and mount a bullet light to the emblem plate for rear signals. I fit a clamp to the handlebars and a bullet light for fronts.
The switch is an add on, sourced here stateside. The winker is imported from Asia.
You can see a complete set on my bikes in my album.
The switch is an add on, sourced here stateside. The winker is imported from Asia.
You can see a complete set on my bikes in my album.