I too have used Evapo Rust with some mixed results. Overall I was happy with it. I too used it in a tank.I used a 32 oz container and just kept turning it for a few days. It looked much better.
Harbor Freight is your friend on this one too...
Honda CA95 Indiana Spokes New Project
Interesting Engine Teardown Find
I finally got the chance to breakdown the engine 100%. The internal parts of this engine are pristine (6800mi on the clock) No tarnish on the crankshaft or gears. But... The left piston sides are grooved. (cylinder is smooth-no damage to the valves) What's a first for me is that the piston has carbon build up in the inside. The wrist pin is discolored and has small divits. What bothers me most is that the inside of the piston rod has a divit in as well, and is not smooth & shiney as the right rod. The right side piston is nice.
Again what bothers me is the crankshaft looks like new. The engine shows no signs of being torn down, unless it was done by a master.
The 6M$ question is: Should I polish the rod at the wrist pin, install a new wrist pin & piston..or possibly search for another crankshaft...
Something happened to that piston to get cabon on the inside and I guess that carbon entered into the wrist pin at the lubrication point.
To add to the mystery...the inside of the engine is free of sludge...but.. a thick carbon layer on found the bottom. This is a great Sam question.
Again what bothers me is the crankshaft looks like new. The engine shows no signs of being torn down, unless it was done by a master.
The 6M$ question is: Should I polish the rod at the wrist pin, install a new wrist pin & piston..or possibly search for another crankshaft...
Something happened to that piston to get cabon on the inside and I guess that carbon entered into the wrist pin at the lubrication point.
To add to the mystery...the inside of the engine is free of sludge...but.. a thick carbon layer on found the bottom. This is a great Sam question.
Spokes wrote:I finally got the chance to breakdown the engine 100%. The internal parts of this engine are pristine (6800mi on the clock) No tarnish on the crankshaft or gears. But... The left piston sides are grooved. (cylinder is smooth-no damage to the valves) What's a first for me is that the piston has carbon build up in the inside. The wrist pin is discolored and has small divits. What bothers me most is that the inside of the piston rod has a divit in as well, and is not smooth & shiney as the right rod. The right side piston is nice.
Again what bothers me is the crankshaft looks like new. The engine shows no signs of being torn down, unless it was done by a master.
The 6M$ question is: Should I polish the rod at the wrist pin, install a new wrist pin & piston..or possibly search for another crankshaft...
Something happened to that piston to get cabon on the inside and I guess that carbon entered into the wrist pin at the lubrication point.
To add to the mystery...the inside of the engine is free of sludge...but.. a thick carbon layer on found the bottom. This is a great Sam question.
I'll have to be quick on this one as I'm just about to fly south for a few days with work so might not get on line for a few days.
I'll guess that the left piston is scored at the rear to the left as you look at it from the back.
Post some picks of the rod but don't attempt to polish it (more on that later.)
Don't worry about the deposits under the piston, this is normal and is caused by the ring gap lining up with one of the oil holes in the piston ring groove.
Sam.
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Larzfromarz
- Posts: 620
- Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 7:47 pm
The build up on the inside of the crown of the piston appears oily, so I assume that Sam is correct. Thank you sir!
I have been trying to get a pic of the inside bore of the piston rod with some success and will post soon. What it looks like is carbon or oily dirt got in between the rod & the wrist pin and buggered both parts. I have new wrist pins coming. I do have access to speciality abrasives due to my position at a needlebearing manufacturing plant, so polishing the bore may be possible and saving the crankshaft.
I have been trying to get a pic of the inside bore of the piston rod with some success and will post soon. What it looks like is carbon or oily dirt got in between the rod & the wrist pin and buggered both parts. I have new wrist pins coming. I do have access to speciality abrasives due to my position at a needlebearing manufacturing plant, so polishing the bore may be possible and saving the crankshaft.
Over the past few weeks I have been breaking down this bike to every last nut & bolt. Yesterday, the first set of chemicaly de-rusted body parts were sent off to the local sandblaster.
My acrylic enamel Jet Black paint is here as well as fresh spray guns. Also, for this build, I will have the engine cases bead blasted. In the past I have used rattle can engine paint. This time around I plan to use 2-part engine paint and apply it with a spray gun.
The pistons cleaned up nicely and the cylinder walls are not scored. The burnt oil/carbon underneath one piston dome seems to have come from an overheating occasion. I have new wrist pins and the new pins fit well in the rods.
I plan to take the pistons in to the plant machine shop to have the pistons and cylinder bores measured to tell me what to do going forward.
I have also been working on a pair of modified Buco saddlebags. These bags were salvaged. They were way past being able to restore exactly. So I removed the light sockets and now there are smooth bullet bags which will be painted along with the bike later this month. I have new Fab guys here in Georgia building bag mounts out of heavy steel plate. The bags have custom made inner plates with inlayed bushings. While Im doing the custom bags, I am resporing a set of Buco bags in the same Jet Black color and inlayed mounts & bushing system. Both bags will be extremely cool. The original Jet Black Buco bag set will be available in a couple of months.
I found some nice modern 3.25 x 16 tires for this build. I struggled with the whitewall tire option, but I cant bring myself to use them. Maybe if the bike is sold later this spring, the new owner can have them mounted.
I have some solo seat & rack ideas I will work on as well as some exhaust ideas, but final product is always unknown based on the progress and look of the bike during the build.
HAppy New Year to All.
My acrylic enamel Jet Black paint is here as well as fresh spray guns. Also, for this build, I will have the engine cases bead blasted. In the past I have used rattle can engine paint. This time around I plan to use 2-part engine paint and apply it with a spray gun.
The pistons cleaned up nicely and the cylinder walls are not scored. The burnt oil/carbon underneath one piston dome seems to have come from an overheating occasion. I have new wrist pins and the new pins fit well in the rods.
I plan to take the pistons in to the plant machine shop to have the pistons and cylinder bores measured to tell me what to do going forward.
I have also been working on a pair of modified Buco saddlebags. These bags were salvaged. They were way past being able to restore exactly. So I removed the light sockets and now there are smooth bullet bags which will be painted along with the bike later this month. I have new Fab guys here in Georgia building bag mounts out of heavy steel plate. The bags have custom made inner plates with inlayed bushings. While Im doing the custom bags, I am resporing a set of Buco bags in the same Jet Black color and inlayed mounts & bushing system. Both bags will be extremely cool. The original Jet Black Buco bag set will be available in a couple of months.
I found some nice modern 3.25 x 16 tires for this build. I struggled with the whitewall tire option, but I cant bring myself to use them. Maybe if the bike is sold later this spring, the new owner can have them mounted.
I have some solo seat & rack ideas I will work on as well as some exhaust ideas, but final product is always unknown based on the progress and look of the bike during the build.
HAppy New Year to All.
Last edited by Spokes on Tue Jan 01, 2013 6:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
Happy 2013, Chip.
I'm interested in learning how your 2-part engine paint works for you, and what size gun you'll use for the spraying. Looking forward to the updates. Also excited to hear that a set of Bucos will be part of the project. I absolutely love that look.
It's 22 degrees here, with a foot of snow on the ground, so all my work will be indoors for now. I'll be putting together my '65 C102 Super Cub when the new battery arrives, and thinking of ways to convince my retired neighbor that he needs to set the world right and sell me his '67 CL77 Scrambler. That would be a fun project.
I'm interested in learning how your 2-part engine paint works for you, and what size gun you'll use for the spraying. Looking forward to the updates. Also excited to hear that a set of Bucos will be part of the project. I absolutely love that look.
It's 22 degrees here, with a foot of snow on the ground, so all my work will be indoors for now. I'll be putting together my '65 C102 Super Cub when the new battery arrives, and thinking of ways to convince my retired neighbor that he needs to set the world right and sell me his '67 CL77 Scrambler. That would be a fun project.
I will post how I refinish the engine in a few weeks. As for now, 1-4-2013, 49 years after the bike was manufactured and 30+ years sitting, laying down or just outside in the wet, cold & heat, with heavy rust, the corrosion has been stopped and removed.
The original metal parts and replacement parts sit after being chemically soaked and sandblasted.
The cosmetic's begin shortly. Some of the deep rust left their marks and will be erased with metal work, filler, spot putty and 2-part primer & acrylic enamel. This bike will be painted Jet black.
Also shown is a couple of sandblasted handlebars that were saved as well. I straigtened one of them and found the other on ebay. Both were seriously rusty, but soon to be part of a batch of parts sent off for chrome plating next month. The extra one will be kept for the next bike....yet to be found.
Not shown is the tank, which was salvaged, cleaned, de-rusted and primed. The new metal surface inside is protected with an industrial rust protection.
The original metal parts and replacement parts sit after being chemically soaked and sandblasted.
The cosmetic's begin shortly. Some of the deep rust left their marks and will be erased with metal work, filler, spot putty and 2-part primer & acrylic enamel. This bike will be painted Jet black.
Also shown is a couple of sandblasted handlebars that were saved as well. I straigtened one of them and found the other on ebay. Both were seriously rusty, but soon to be part of a batch of parts sent off for chrome plating next month. The extra one will be kept for the next bike....yet to be found.
Not shown is the tank, which was salvaged, cleaned, de-rusted and primed. The new metal surface inside is protected with an industrial rust protection.
Chain guard appears to be in great shape. Looks like a good foundation for another restoration. Thanks for the update - it's fun to watch other projects, and a work bench filled with bike parts makes me smile.
With a foot of snow on the ground, I'm keeping busy putting my '65 Honda C102 Super Cub back together. Today I cleaned and reassembled the little down-draft carburetor. Funny when you think that this little carb has such a tiny, but effective, petcock built right on top the float bowl, but the same company engineered the huge hockey puck sized petcocks for the Benly and Dream.
With a foot of snow on the ground, I'm keeping busy putting my '65 Honda C102 Super Cub back together. Today I cleaned and reassembled the little down-draft carburetor. Funny when you think that this little carb has such a tiny, but effective, petcock built right on top the float bowl, but the same company engineered the huge hockey puck sized petcocks for the Benly and Dream.
Ahh. the Honda Cub. Back in 1967 my mother drove me to Golden Gate Honda on the east side of Cleveland Ohio. I bought a 65 Honda cub for $125. We brought it home in her 65 Fairlane wagon....
And a foot of snow.... I sure miss the 60's but not the snow.
I wanted to show a couple of before and after pics of my project so far. It's about the rust removal and cosmetic repairs. Below is what I started with.
This is where I'm at now 1-6-2013
This was the only side that had major rust. Being that the rust was so severe, it left some deep pitting. The steel was still solid though. What I did after sandblasting was to power brush the surface with a brass brush to get to a clean shine to the metal. I flashed off any moisture with a tourch and coated the entire damaged area with fiberglass resin. I coated the resin with body shop quality filler and sanded smooth. This technique will ensure a new seal and bond. I will finish off the repair and paint this area 1st. A few coats of 2 part primer and enamel paint before shooting the entire frame will make this damage undectable for the next 2 decades at least.
And a foot of snow.... I sure miss the 60's but not the snow.
I wanted to show a couple of before and after pics of my project so far. It's about the rust removal and cosmetic repairs. Below is what I started with.
This is where I'm at now 1-6-2013
This was the only side that had major rust. Being that the rust was so severe, it left some deep pitting. The steel was still solid though. What I did after sandblasting was to power brush the surface with a brass brush to get to a clean shine to the metal. I flashed off any moisture with a tourch and coated the entire damaged area with fiberglass resin. I coated the resin with body shop quality filler and sanded smooth. This technique will ensure a new seal and bond. I will finish off the repair and paint this area 1st. A few coats of 2 part primer and enamel paint before shooting the entire frame will make this damage undectable for the next 2 decades at least.
What a difference. The 'before' pictures look pretty severe - I probably would have passed on the project, but you're right, the frame appears to be structurally sound. It will be interesting to watch this progress. Given how you've filled the pits, it'll look like new when it's primed and painted.
Is this the roughest frame you've started a project with?
Is this the roughest frame you've started a project with?
Actually, yes. I have had some projects that were close to this bad.
This project is not for the meek at heart. 99.9% of people would of have walked away. Another two years in Indiana and it would of been hopeless.
Having said that, the engine was prestine inside, the seat and chain guard was there as well. I bought it based on the stock original parts. But, remember it's just a hobby...anyway I liked 1964, so saving the bike has a little of my inner self being healed. In the evenings I play 1964 Rock & Roll while working on this bike, it jogs my memories.
This project is not for the meek at heart. 99.9% of people would of have walked away. Another two years in Indiana and it would of been hopeless.
Having said that, the engine was prestine inside, the seat and chain guard was there as well. I bought it based on the stock original parts. But, remember it's just a hobby...anyway I liked 1964, so saving the bike has a little of my inner self being healed. In the evenings I play 1964 Rock & Roll while working on this bike, it jogs my memories.
How interesting! I did something similar during my project - not as much with listening to the music, but researching what was happening in 1965, the year of my Benly. It's fun to put a historical reference to the project.Spokes wrote:I liked 1964, so saving the bike has a little of my inner self being healed. In the evenings I play 1964 Rock & Roll while working on this bike, it jogs my memories.
As with my other bike projects, I wrote a book about my Benly project, as a personal memento. Page 12 (below) has a historic reference, including musical milestones, to set the tone:
